Taking stock of the last 18 days in Kayes*

So in 18 days in Kayes, we have so far completed 168 household surveys/interviews. I have done another dozen or so open-ended interviews with educators, religious figures, and community members. The last three days of work have been fairly difficult as we have to cross the river in a pirogue every morning and afternoon. The pirgogues are packed with people, an occassional sheep, and motos. People walk across wooden planks from the muddy banks into the pirogues. These planks tend to shift and move and the "boat capitans" are less than attentive when they start to lift up. People also jump from the narrow boats onto the muddy banks - pushing the boat farther back into the river with every takeoff. Lately, I have bypassed my traditional Malian clothes for more sensible pants, tank top, and the dreaded sports-sandals. I have found that I need to be prepared for the worst - whether jumping from the canoe to the banks, walking between people on narrow benches to find a place and climbing up and down the muddy hills. Like all public transport in Mali - there is tremendous solidarity in the pirogues and people laugh and joke - until its time for the massive and sudden exodus off onto the neighboring river banks. We have one more trip to "Kayes NDyi" and then one more village before we are done. Then we are planning to have sheep party Saturday and then leave Kayes on Sunday.

I have learned/seen a lot in Kayes. It is really to get out of Bamako and to see some regional differences. For the first time, we are seeing preferences for religious school among certain ethnic groups (Soninke and Peule)that are pretty distinct from the rest of respondants. I will leave Kayes with an assortment of bizarre and unknown insect bites (such as that mysterious insect that spewed acid onto my forearm so it looked like I burned myself.) Two days ago a lizard jumped onto me and ran up my head as I was doing an interview. (Malians swear this means I am pregnant - which I have assured them is not the case. Even so, I have heard the women whispering lately - oh she will finally give her husband a child). I met a puppy named Michael Jackson today and our research team almost purchased a baby monkey for $5. The vast majority of people in Kayes have been extremely friendly and the food is great! We might try to go see a former colonial fort this afternoon.

*Picture with village chief - Oumar Diallo- in Madinel