To Timbuktu and Back

Most Americans haven't hear of Mali. I think its imagined as a hybrid of Malawi and Bali. However, all Americans have heard of Timbuktu. I first remember hearing about it while watching bugs bunny cartoons as a child.

I sent my RAs up to Timbuktu to finish up the final surveys. I had wanted to accompany them, but given the summers' events (assassination of a British hostage by a group calling themselves Al Queada of the Sahel, supposed ties between that group and family disputes in Timbuktu region, assassination of a Malian military officer in his living room in Timbuktu ville) and my lack of language skills - I don't speak Songhrai, Arabic, or Tamashek - I opted to send them up alone. I was also reaping the benefits of months of training and mentoring my bright, capable research assistants. One of them was from the region and other has been with me since February. We talked extensively about budget management, site selection, and various logistics before they left on the bus to Douentza and then a 4X4 to Timbuktu.

I was fortunate enough to score a ride up to visit them. My rock-star pilot friend allowed me to "roadtrip" up with him to Timbuktu. I admit I was suffering from a bit of Mali malaise before my departure, but riding in the cockpit tracing the path of the Niger to the left of the plane - was a shocking reminder of where I was and what I was doing. After a brief stop in Mopti, we powered on the Timbuktu. My RA Youba sent a friend to pick me up on his moto. The city was relatively quiet and calm. As we road over the sand dunes -I remember how different it was up North. Bella make-shift huts were scattered throughout the city, there were no taxis, no jakartas - just lots of 4x4s.

I was dropped off at Youba's house. I spent the day with him and Guindo - reviewing the budget and talking about the surveys - voting rates are much higher in Timbuktu, ethnic and inter-ethnic coalitions appear to trump party identification, people have fewer government documents. I met the two assistants that Guindo and Youba had selected to help them with the surveys and I was extremely impressed. A law graduate and a education student - both were very interested in the intersection of education and politics. They joked that the survey brought them luck - in that very week one had been hired with an NGO and the other passed his university exams. We ate some amazing "dibi sogo." I spent the evening chatting with Youba's dad in the compound under the stars. He told me how much Timbuktu has changed - how tradition is weakening and how the content of someone's thoughts/intellect is less valued. I said goodbye to everyone and headed back to the hotel so I would be ready for the 5:30 am depart.

I rode back to the airport and standing up in the back of a pickup - breathing in the fresh air. It smelled like the ocean. I returned triumphant to Bamako - timbuktu and back in less than 24 hours, receipts and 100 surveys in hand - this is definitely the most efficient trip I've ever made.